Filed under: Holidays
Clockwise from top left: Beet, Orange, & Arugula Salad, Macaroon Cake, Poppy’s Horseradish, and Passover Triple-Chocolate Brownies.
I am not turning over my house for Passover this year. (Here’s what I did in 2008 and 2009.) I’ve been thinking about taking this year off for a while, and my decision was reinforced when we dealt with a 4-day power failure a month ago. I had to toss everything in my fridge, and while it was empty it seemed appropriate to do a deep cleaning. It felt like Passover — the cleaning part beforehand at least — had come early.
I have never been good at explaining the “why” of the choices I make for my kitchen to my boys. The why, to me, is often “because that’s how my mom did it” and that’s not a very satisfying answer to a little kid. It’s not satisfying to me when I say it out loud either, though I guess that is the very definition of tradition. I label my kitchen kosher-style, but over the past year or so I have become a lot more lenient in what that means. Without the personal conviction that I’m keeping this set of rules because of my own religious beliefs, it has been harder and harder for me to see a reason to keep shredded mozzarella off the table when I am serving meatballs. The boys don’t eat the meatballs anyway, so there’s no actual mixing of meat and cheese going on — they just want some cheese on their pasta. And I could not care less if you want butter on your baked potato while eating a steak. I still don’t combine meat and milk in the same dish when I cook, but this is more a lifelong habit than anything else.
This relaxing of my overall nod to kashrut has definitely colored my feeling about keeping Passover, and the work involved in doing so in my home. So, 2010 is a trial year. As we get closer to the start of the holiday, I am feeling a little left out of that small club of people that completely turn over their kitchens. I am, however, really looking forward to making a great dinner for my parents on Sunday. They will be in the jaws of that no man’s land of no more chometz in the house, but the holiday hasn’t started yet — what do you eat? I’m glad we’ll be able to feed them! Then on Monday I’m looking forward to cooking for the first seder with my family at my parent’s house. The Pesadich dishes, silverware, and pots I grew up using for just 8 days out of the year are touchstones that bring the holiday home for me.
Still looking for Passover recipes? Here’s a roundup I put together last year: Passover Recipes, Past and Future. I’m going to be making a version of the Beet, Orange, & Arugula Salad pictured above, using my newly-learned knife skills to supreme the orange.
March 27, 2010
I went into G.’s school today to make latkes with a couple of other moms for Hanukkah. I am not the official latke-maker in our house — that’s J.’s domain. But I can still make a pretty delicious potato pancake, and it has nothing to do with the recipe. It’s all about controlling the moisture.
If you’ve never made a latke before, don’t worry about finding the “right” recipe. Any recipe you use will generally include potatoes, onions, eggs, flour or matzah meal, and salt and pepper. The secret is what you do with the potato and onion once they are grated. Place your grated potatoes and onions in a clean tea towel or some doubled-over cheese cloth. Pull up the edges so you’ve got the mixture in a ball at the bottom of the cloth, and the edges you pulled up around it are coming out the top of your fist. Over a sink or a bowl, hold the ball on the bottom in one hand, and wring those top edges tightly with your other hand, twisting so the cloth gets taut over the mixture and forces all the moisture out of potatoes and onions. Keep doing this until there’s not a drop of moisture coming out of those potatoes and onions.
You’ll wind up with a lot more liquid than you expected, plus a lot of starch (that’s the white stuff at the bottom of the bowl):
Now you can add the other ingredients, but add the eggs sparingly — they’re just helping to bind the mixture, they’re not meant to be noticed in the finished product.
That’s the simple, but critical, secret. When you cook with a dry-as-possible mix, your latkes will fry up quickly, super-crisp and brown. And those are the qualities of a perfect potato pancake, no matter what your recipe.
December 15, 2009
We hosted Thanksgiving last night and I think it was a great success. I love the way the holiday table looks set for the meal and decorated with flowers and crafts the boys made! I had two goals for Thanksgiving this year: spend more time with my family while they’re here (less time prepping and cleaning up after), and make a meal that is well-loved and not too experimental. Last year the food was fine, but there was nothing that came out great. Not so this year! (more…)
November 27, 2009
I won’t turn away a piece of chocolate cake if you set it in front of me, but I’d prefer something like carrot cake most any day. (Better yet, give me some mac & cheese or homemade mashed potatoes, and I’ll pass on dessert completely.) So it’s no surprise that my absolute favorite cake in the world is filled with apples, not fudge. J.’s aunt usually makes this cake for Rosh Hashanah or Thanksgiving, so I don’t often get a chance to make it myself. But, it is my all-time favorite cake to bake… and eat. This is her recipe.
Ann’s Apple Cake
My Bundt pan takes about 2 quarts of batter, and measures 10″ in diameter. This recipe completely fills the pan.
3 c. apples, pared and thinly sliced (5 or 6 — I like Golden Delicious)
5 Tbsp. + 2 c. sugar
5 tsp. cinnamon
3 c. white whole wheat flour (or AP)
3 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt
1 c. canola oil
4 large eggs
1/4 c. orange juice
1 Tbsp. vanilla
3/4 c. chopped walnuts (optional)
Preheat oven to 375° F.
Toss apple slices with 5 Tbsp. sugar and cinnamon, and set aside.
In a large bowl, combine flour, the rest of the sugar, baking powder, and salt. Add remaining ingredients EXCEPT for the walnuts, and beat well. The batter will be very thick, almost like a cookie dough.
Grease and flour a Bundt pan, then use a flexible spatula to layer in a third of the batter, then half of the apples, a third of the batter, remaining apples, and top with remaining batter. You can press the apples down lightly with clean hands to make sure they’re evenly distributed. Sprinkle with chopped walnuts, if you’re using them.
Bake cake for 50 minutes to an hour, or until a bamboo skewer or cake tester comes out clean. Allow to cool completely before unmolding.
October 7, 2009
We had a wonderful holiday, and we got a chance to host a night of Rosh Hashanah for the first time! J. and I love having our families over for the holidays, and I am lucky that he is an eager partner in all the planning and execution. And the clean up — which was not helped by us losing hot water for several hours this morning. (It’s back now, and everything is washed and put away.) I like everything about hosting a holiday: brainstorming a menu, writing a shopping list, doing the shopping, cooking, setting the table, and so on. And the best part of all is having my whole family together, happy and full and celebrating.
I was too busy getting dinner on the table and enjoying my family to photography the dishes while they were hot and first put out. So you’re getting my leftovers! (more…)
September 20, 2009
My family is spoiled. J.’s grandma, GG, makes her own gefilte fish from scratch. It is delicious, and even though I rarely like fish I look forward to her gefilte on the holidays. It is truly a labor of love, both because it is time consuming and because she has to make a lot to feed us all! Because of that effort, it just seems wrong to put jarred horseradish on top of something so lovingly homemade. So although J.’s grandpa Poppy, the originator of the family horseradish recipe, is no longer with us to celebrate and make his horseradish himself, his recipe lives on. Lauren has made it for Rosh Hashanah and Passover for several years, and I was lucky enough to have her teach me the method this time around. Even if your family doesn’t eat gefilte fish, prepared horseradish is great with roast beef, in dips, and more.
I was warned that the fumes coming off the grated horseradish root are even more potent than a strong onion, but I felt it was just barely more manageable than that. Still, I had to walk away from the recipe more than a few times, just to clear my eyes and be able to see what I was doing! (Every time I opened the food processor, a fresh wave of blinding fumes hit me.) Lauren’s expression cracked me up when I did this — she smiled a little knowingly, indulgently, and then moved to take over whatever step we were in the middle of while I lunged for fresh air. Clearly, she is a seasoned pro! You’ll want to heed the instructions she included on the recipe: “Windows open and door open — you’ll appreciate it!” A fan might be nice, too.
Poppy’s Horseradish
Makes 4-5 cups of prepared horseradish, which in our family is enough for two nights of about 12+ adults each night eating liberal amounts with their gefilte fish, plus a little left over
2 large horseradish roots (about 1.5 lbs.)
1 15-oz. can sliced beets, drained + reserve liquid
3/4 – 1 c. red wine vinegar (other vinegar is fine)
3/4 – 1 c. granulated sugar
2 – 4 tsp. salt (to taste)
Trim and peel the horseradish root, then cut into large chunks that will fit into your food processor. Using the shredder/grating blade, process all of the horseradish root and the drained beets, then remove to a large bowl. (Poppy’s original recipe has you put the shredded horseradish through the food processor again so it is double-shredded, but I don’t think this is necessary.)
Starting with the smaller quantities suggested, add vinegar, sugar, and salt to the horseradish and beets. Mix well. Change out the shredder in your food processor for the chopping blade. Add the contents of the bowl back into the food processor, and pulse until pureed. If needed, add some of the reserved beet juice back into the mix if it is too thick — this will also make it a deeper purple color.
Once horseradish has reached the consistency you want, taste it and adjust the vinegar, sugar, and salt — just a tiny taste does the trick. Store in the refrigerator in an airtight container (Horseradish.org says for up to 4-6 months!). The strength of the horseradish will diminish as it ages.
(more…)
September 20, 2009
We’re preparing for the Jewish New Year this week! I don’t normally host this holiday, but I am excited to get a chance to do so this year on Saturday night. I think I finally have my menu in place, though I will wait until I see what we get from our farm share on Wednesday to make the absolute final menu.
Cooking is light this week in preparation for the holiday. I’m also going to try my hand at making prepared horseradish for GG’s homemade gefilte fish. Lauren has told me to make sure I have good ventilation before I start grating the root — wish me luck!
Monday: Leftovers from Sunday’s Smokin’ Lunch
Tuesday: Pasta with sauteed komatsuna (Japanese mustard spinach) and onion
Wednesday: Bagels, salad, cheese & hummus
Thursday: Order in (starting to prep for Rosh Hashanah)
Friday: Rosh Hashanah dinner away (Shana tova!)
Saturday: Rosh Hashanah dinner here: Apples and honey to start, challah. Chicken soup with matzah balls (GG makes it). Smoked brisket and chicken, tomato salad, tzimmes of sweet potatoes and figs, barley with roasted vegetables, and green beans with roasted onions. Honey cookies, apple pie, fruit for dessert.
Sunday: Leftovers
For more menu planning ideas, check out Laura at Organizing Junkie.
September 13, 2009
We had our families over for a July 4th barbecue this weekend, and I made up this dip to serve before hand with chips and pretzels. I wanted to use the green onions, parsley, and cilantro from my farm share; the cilantro always reminds me of guacamole so the lime and jalapeno seemed like natural additions here, too. Next time I’d add an extra jalapeno.
My mom said this was the best dip she ever ate in her life. (Really, I think she was just excited about the potato chips!) It’s very fresh and cool tasting, and was a perfect beginning to our traditional cook out. I’d make it again to bring to a party.
Lime & Herb Dip
2 c. sour cream
1 lime, zested and juiced
4 green onions, minced
1 jalapeno, minced (or more)
1 large handful fresh parsley, finely chopped
1 large handful fresh cilantro, finely chopped
1/4 tsp. salt (or more to taste)
Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl and stir well. Allow to chill in the fridge for at least an hour before serving.
July 5, 2009
At my bridal shower, guests were asked to bring a recipe card filled out with their favorite dish. I got a terrific collection of tried and true recipes from my friends and family, and I still haven’t gotten around to trying every one of them. I’ve kept Susanna’s recipe for sangria for a decade, always noticing it as I thumbed through my recipe binder but never having a good reason to make a vat-sized alcoholic drink. Inspired by the mimosas Robert and Lauren suggested for a recent family birthday get-together — every loved them — I decided to build our Mother’s Day menu around this drink. And so finally, we made sangria. Or rather, J. made it — he cooked the whole meal for all 12 of us! It was definitely a special and delicious addition to the chimichurri steak, tortilla chips, guacamole, and zucchini and onion skewers we served.
If you don’t feel like buying superfine sugar for this recipe, you can make a simple syrup instead: 1 part sugar to 1 part water in a small saucepan, bring to a boil and then reduce the heat until the sugar is completely dissolved, then let it cool. Since this recipe is pretty much all alcohol, don’t worry about diluting it with the syrup!
One of the things I love about my collection of recipe cards is seeing them handwritten and annotated by people that are important to me. On this card, Susanna wrote “this will knock your socks (and whatever else) off!” She’s right — it’s easy to drink, and potent. Consider yourself warned!
Susanna’s Sangria
3 lemons, washed, halved and cut into 1/4″ slices
3 oranges, washed, halved and cut into 1/4″ slices
1/4 c. superfine sugar (or more, to taste)
2 bottles red table wine
1 pint triple sec
1 pint brandy
1 bottle champagne or sparkling wine
Combine all ingredients except for champagne in a large punch bowl or pitcher (use two if you don’t have one large enough, and just put half the ingredients in each). Allow to chill in the refrigerator overnight.
Add champagne just before serving, and stir well. Serve over ice if desired.
May 11, 2009
This is my last Passover recipe for 2009, and it served as a birthday cake earlier in the week. Originally I thought I’d be serving chicken for dinner, so I was looking for a pareve dessert. That limited my options, but I found this Passover Coconut Cake that looked like a good starting point. Although my meal later changed to a vegetarian Noodle Kugel, I stuck with the idea of a non-dairy cake.
I found that the finely shredded, dried coconut suspended in the whipped egg whites took on a cake-crumb consistency, which was a welcome result. The cake was not too sweet, which I like. The original recipe calls for baking it in a 9×13-inch pan, but I used two round cake pans instead.
I’d planned to melt and drizzle some chocolate on the top of the cake before serving, but we wound up eating it as a mid-afternoon snack instead of after dinner, and I was caught unprepared. Everyone liked it anyway (most importantly, the birthday girls enjoyed it). A ganache would probably be good on top, and I think the batter would work well as muffins.
Macaroon Cake
Adapted from Passover Coconut Cake
6 eggs, separated
1 c. white sugar
2 c. unsweetened, dessicated coconut
8 oz. dark chocolate, chopped (or about a cup of chocolate chips)
Preheat oven to 350° F.
With an electric mixer, beat eggs whites until soft peaks form — about 5 minutes. Add sugar and beat another minute or so. Set aside.
In a small bowl, beat yolks until they begin to lighten in color. Mix in coconut and chocolate. Then fold mixture into the egg whites and sugar.
Grease 2 round cake pans with non-stick spray. Bake for about 40 minutes, until the tops are lightly browned and a toothpick stuck in the center comes out clean.
April 16, 2009
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I'm Dara, the Chick in the Kitchen. Living in the suburbs of Manhattan with my two boys, ages 4 and 6, and husband. Trying to feed my family something more diverse than a different shape of pasta each night. Read more 